Goldfinger HD25-1
Here are some 23.5ct gilded HD25-1 done as a bit of and experiment. The luster of real gold can not be matched by paint.
Video from the launch party
I finally got round to putting together the vids and picks from the launch party. The video is a bit dark but hay….. the sound track is great.
And you can download the full 3hr mix here
Enjoy
Scrolling text XD-1000 frankenphones
Have recently finished my first pair of moded XD-1000 headphones. I kept it subtle with some slightly spangely black paint and then manages to get a scrolling text display attached to the headband.
I was using them fro promo purposes at the launch party but got such a good response that I am going to start making a few more in the new year
Launch party ;-)
The launch party was on thursday so the website is now officially open. It was a great night with Tomm and Sam tearing it up with some dirty beats ( the mix is on its way to JFunk.org as we speak ) Lots of fun and too many drinks.
Dismantling Technics RP-DH1200
This is a guide to dismantling the mighty Technics 1200 DJ headphones. These headphones take quite a long time to dismantle but there are no nasty surprises other than a few spots of glue. They are very well made and robust like most technics products and that really sows as you pull them apart.
Here goes then
Stage 1 – Clear your workspace and get those phones out, You will need a couple of small phillips head screwdrivers, a craft knife, a coctail stick and a soldering iron.
Stage 2 – Remove the ear pad by unhooking a small section with your finger and working it round until it is fully removed.
Stage 3 – Unscrew the three screws holding the driver in place
Stage 4 – Pop the driver off to reveal the goodies within
stage 5 – If you look closely you will notice that the thin cable that loops through the headband is glued to the the strain relievers inside the earcup. Use the craft knife the cut that away to release the cable.
Stage 6 – Unsolder the drivers.. Pull slightly on the cables and dab the solderpads with a hot soldering iron. This should release the cables from the drivers.
Stage 7 – gently pull on the rubber surround end it should start to come away. keep pulling it off section by section trying not to stretch it until it comes free
Stage 8 – Now just remove the bar springs by just pulling on them, they are not glued or anything, and you should be at this stage
Stage 9 – Unsolder the cable from the circuit board inside the cup. Then remove the glue again from the cable if you have not done so already.
Stage 10 – Unscrew the two screws holding the socket that connects to the detachable cable .Use your cocktail stick to lever the socket away from the body ( I use a cocktail stick because it wont scratch or dent the plastics. )
Stage 11 – Rotate the cup into this position. Then unscrew these three screws with a small phillips screwdriver. To stop you from losing the screws I recommend sticking them to a strip of masking tape… That wont roll away and are easier to find again.
Stage 12 – Lift up this end of the cover by poking your cocktail stick into the small rectangular hole. You only need to raise it a little, then slide the coocktail stick through the gap to hold it open.
Stage 13 – Now flip it over and you should now be able to pull the cam that was up against the bar spring away from the hinge. Then you can unhook the earcup from the lug on the other side.
Stage 14 – You can now gently pull the cup hinge away from the headband to release the cover you unscrewed in stage 11. You only need to move it around 1mm just enough to release the cover.. Don’t try to pull too hard or you may damage the cable. You can use the cocktail stick to lever it up if it is being awkward. You should be here…
Stage 15 – Now you can remove the cable from the run and the remove the cup hinge from the headband. Again be careful of the cable.
Stage 16 – Here is where we are at now… look at that
Stage 17 – You can now remove the metal ring from the face. There is a rectangular whole underneath through which you can poke the ring. It is stuck down with double sided sticky tape so a little force will release it. Then lever the the rest of it up. Again use the cocktail stick ( I know…. I used a screwdriver in the picture and I deserve a slapped wrist for that. )
Stage 18 – You can now undo these three screws to take the technics logo off. Underneath there is a small circle of sponge that stops vibration so dont lose that piece.
And that’s it… You can carry on and dismantle the headband and hinges but it gets dangerous from here on so you are on your own if you want to try that
Work needn’t be a chore
If like me you work several jobs and have no time to relax and take it easy then you will love my latest upgrade/mod. Now you can work like crazy and relax at the same time with Plank 2.0. Simply attach Plank 2.0 to your bath and hay presto you can now catch up on a bit of web design and check your email from the soothing waters of a boiling hot bath…..
Dismanteling the Senneiser HD25-1 / HD25-13 / HD25C Headphones
I Know the HD 25s are designed so that every part is user serviceable but I also know a lot of people are still scared of pulling them apart. So here is a guide with lots of picks. These are definitely the easiest DJ headphones to dismantle and I take my hat off to sennheiser for that. Any way….. Lets get on with it.
I know it seems silly but you might as well start from the beginning
Stage 1
Un boxing. Like the rest of the headphones the box is simple and well designed, just pop it open and undo a twistick to remove the headphones from their bag. Anyone who has unboxed a pair of panasonics will know it is not always that simple.
Stage 2
Remove the right earcup. Unhook the cable from the right earpod by pulling it out. Then slide the cup down to the bottom of the headband then use a little extra force to get it to pop off the end.
Stage 3
Remove the cable from the headband. Grasping the connector you have just unplugged carefully pull the cable out of the groove on the inside of the headband. Take it slow as you don,t want to break it.
Stage 4
Now remove the left cup using the same method used on the right
Stage 5
Unscrew these two screws holding the cable on to the earcup. On the 25C there is only 2 screws, on the 25-1 and 25-13 the cable is sandwidged inbetween two plastic runners so as you remove the screws make sure you don’t lose them
Stage 6
Unscrew this screw with a medium flat head screw driver. Once you have unscrewed the second one on the other side the rest of the headband pieces should come apart. If you check the second photo this is what it should look like now
Stage 7
Unpeel the padding. The padding is held on with double sided sticky tape… Carefully peel them off you don’t want to tare them!
Stage 8
Unhook the ear cushion. Poke your finger inside the earpad and gently pull it away from the body. Underneath there will be a foam disk which just comes away.
Stage 9
Dismantle the ear pod. Hold the earpod by it’s sides and firmly press the centre part ( the bit with the writing/screw wholes on) the the driver should pop out. Inside there is a disk of sound absorbing material which again just comes away.
And your done… you should now have a fully dismantled pair of HD25s
Ed Gardy Tattoo style sennheiser HD 25-1 ii
Seb has finished the first pair of tattoo hd25s and they look better than expected.
New HD280pro on the way soon
It’s been a while but it is time to go back to the classics. There are a few pairs of HD280s in production at the moment. The sennheiser hd280 have been my favorate cans for years and I use them every time I DJ out but for some reason I have not been airbrushing any for a while. But you know the way it is you get none for ages then three come at once. I will update when they are done
Head on over to CustomCans if you want some
Ed Hardy style HD25-1 in production
Here are the tattoo style headphones are in production at the moment. They are coming on nicely but they are still missing something…
Check out CustomCans for more details